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  • Presentation

Evidence-Based Treatment Approaches for Acne Scars in Ethnic Skin

Description

The talk reviewed evidence-based approaches to treating acne scars in ethnic skin, emphasizing careful assessment of scar type, severity, Fitzpatrick skin type, downtime, and cost before choosing treatment. It focused mainly on atrophic scars, including ice-pick, rolling, and boxcar scars. For ice-pick scars, TCA CROSS is a standard option, but lower concentrations such as 50% can be as effective as 80% with fewer side effects and less post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), especially when combined with hydroquinone pre- and post-treatment. For rolling scars, subcision often outperformed even 100% TCA and was highlighted as underused and highly effective, with minimal pigment risk. Microneedling was presented as a safe, well-tolerated option for higher Fitzpatrick skin types and is often combined with other procedures. Among energy-based devices, nonablative fractional lasers and RF microneedling improved scars, but shallow scars like rolling and boxcar scars responded better than deeper ice-pick scars; lasers tended to have more PIH and erythema, while microneedling had fewer pigment complications. Fractional CO2 and RF microneedling showed comparable scar improvement, though each had different side-effect profiles. Fractional microplasma RF may yield stronger improvement but with more pain, erythema, and occasional PIH. Because patients usually present with mixed scar types, combination therapy—such as subcision with fillers or fractional CO2—was emphasized as especially valuable for achieving the best results.

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Conclusions

  • Acne scarring in ethnic skin can be managed safely and effectively, but treatment selection must be guided by scar type, skin type, downtime, and cost to minimize complications.
  • For icepick scars, TCA CROSS is effective, but lower concentrations such as 50% may offer similar improvement to 80% with fewer adverse effects like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
  • For rolling scars, subcision appears more effective than 100% TCA CROSS and produces fewer pigmentary side effects.
  • Microneedling is a safe, well-tolerated option for higher Fitzpatrick skin types and can be combined with other treatments to improve results while keeping the risk of dyspigmentation low.
  • Nonablative fractional lasers improve boxcar and rolling scars better than icepick scars because their depth of penetration is insufficient for many deep icepick lesions.
  • Microneedling and laser-based approaches can produce comparable scar improvement, but microneedling generally has a better safety profile with less erythema and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
  • Fractional radiofrequency microneedling is effective for moderate to severe atrophic acne scars, with most patients improving and many gaining at least two grades.
  • Fractional CO2 laser and RF microneedling can achieve similar scar texture improvement, but CO2 tends to cause more erythema and skin barrier disruption while RF microneedling tends to be more painful.
  • Fractional microplasma RF may produce greater scar improvement than RF microneedling, but it also appears to cause more pain, longer erythema, and occasional PIH.
  • Combination therapy is often the best strategy for mixed acne scar patterns, because combining subcision with fillers or fractional CO2 can improve outcomes beyond subcision alone, albeit with greater downtime or treatment-related discomfort.
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