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  • Presentation

Cosmeceutical Concepts in Skin of Color

Description

The discussion focuses on the unique challenges and advancements in treating skin of color, particularly regarding hyperpigmentation and photoaging. Skin of color, characterized by higher melanin levels, benefits from delayed signs of photoaging but faces increased risks of pigmentary disorders like post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma. Recent studies showcased the significant impact of uneven skin tone on perceived age, with unevenness correlating to a perceived age difference of up to 20 years. New treatments for hyperpigmentation are emerging, highlighting the difference between human and mushroom tyrosinase, with novel agents like thiamidol showing efficacy in melasma treatment comparably to traditional options like hydroquinone. Additionally, innovative ingredients such as 2 MNG and lotus sprout extract target melanin synthesis via unique mechanisms, while tranexamic acid and cysteamine are recognized for their effectiveness as adjunct treatments. Discussions also emphasized the importance of addressing visible light exposure, which exacerbates pigmentation issues, and the role of iron oxides in sunscreens for protective measures. Overall, the talk indicates a shift towards personalized approaches in treatment and preventative strategies for patients with skin of color.

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Conclusions

  • Higher melanin content in skin of color offers some advantages like delaying signs of photoaging.
  • Darker skin types are prone to specific pigmentary disorders including dyschromias and hyperpigmentation.
  • Hyperpigmentation significantly influences perceived age, correlating closely with even skin tone.
  • Novel treatments, such as thiamidol, 2-MNG, and combination therapies like lotus sprout extract and tranexamic acid, show promise in treating hyperpigmentation.
  • Thiamidol exhibits superior efficacy compared to traditional agents like hydroquinone and is particularly effective against human tyrosinase.
  • The 2-MNG ingredient effectively reduces melanin production by binding to melanin precursors and has shown significant results in clinical trials.
  • Visible light exposure can exacerbate hyperpigmentation in darker skin due to specific opsins in melanocytes that are activated by blue light.
  • Black iron oxides in sunscreens provide effective protection against visible light, which is important for darker skin types.
  • Antioxidants in sunscreens enhance protection against visible light and may help reduce pigmentation damage.
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